Time Goes Before the People

25 May 2009
I have returned to my heart home. The plane ride was its ususal aerobics in hell type of trip, though not as bad as many I have taken. I noticed it took a bit more of a toll on Brett than me, but perhaps that is only because he had been doing so much before we left. It’s wonderful to see this place through fresh eyes, and Brett’s quiet calm and easy going ways. It promises to be a delightful adventure.
I start all my trips with a visit to my home church St. John’s on the grounds of KARI (Kenya Agricultural Research Institute). This is my friend Evalyn’s church, and it is where my journey really began 7 years ago. So much has changed. There were so many fewer people there,the result of several things. Evalyn now lives in Nairobi and is not there as much, and of course so many fled after the terror of the elections and long nights lying over their children in the corn fields to keep them safe. The assistant vicar gave a wonderful sermon on whom we should count on.
It seems that the Standard has been publishing stories that the only one who can save Kenya from their economical disasters is Uhuru Kenyatta. Kenyans are clearly fed up with the dreadful state of politics here. But, as David pointed out, it will not be a man who can save this country. He went on to talk about an announcement that had been made in church about registering for exams for teachers. It seems that you must return to your home province to register. Again David reminded us that anyone in Kenya can take a course in the U.S no matter where he comes from, but in Kenya you are still made to go to your tribal land. This continuation of tribalism continues to split the people and the country. This is something that has been readily apparent to me since I first came here. Nothing has changed. On the ride home I was talking to Francis and Brett and explained that all the tribes see me as white and not part of any tribe so they talk about each other with reckless abandon since I am nothing. It does provide an interesting perspective.
Right after church we went to see my nieces Rhoda and Rowena. I love these young women, they have become my second daughters. They are such remarkable women, and I hope One Village can support them in some way as well as the poorest of the poor. I believe we must encourage the brightest children as well as those who shall never leave their village. Rowena wants to come to the U.S to be a doctor and somehow we shall have to figure that out. The trick is to send these bright people home to Kenya instead of keeping them in the U.S.
From KARI we traveled to Evalyn’s new home in Nairobi. It is a grand affair compared to the housing at KARI. The choir was visiting her to sing for her. I could not help but notice the differences in the attitude of the choir towards her. It was not as open and loving as when Evalyn lived there. Changes have come, things are not the same. Evalyn is also a bit reactive about her school. I am not sure why, but I shall see her for dinner tonight and learn more.
Brett and I returned to our hotel blearily weary. We both fell asleep immediately and slept till morning.
It was neat to hear Brett’s take on the day before and I am truly looking forward to his assessment of the dinner tonight. Sam and Evalyn shall be joining us.
Today the weather is damp and cool, but I suspect before te end of the day, it shall change. Tomorrow we drive the Rift. I’m excited to do this. I have never done it before, but with Brett’s enthusiasm and my desire that he have some fun, we’re going to do it. And Brett even suggested a balloon ride over the Mara and I think we shall.

26 May 2009

Today was one of those insane days that happen in Africa. It began with an ominous statement by Francis that “Time goes before the People”, indicating that we were going to be later than Bush’s apology to the Dems for Iraq. Yeah, we were driving the Rift. Now Francis had indicated it would be 5 hours to get there, that was confirmed by Evalyn’s husband Sam. So if we left at 9A I figured we would be in Kisumu by 2:30. Can you hear the reindeer on the roof Virginia??? By 2:30 we were still an hour and ½ away. And by 3 the car had broken down so badly we had to call Monica who generously came to get us. We did not get to KMET until 5P at which time most of the people had gone home.
The Rift itself is beyond my ability to describe it in a fashion befitting the beauty and awe of it. Can you imagine tooling down the road and looking over to see Zebra walking on the side? How about stopping to photograph a tiny church and having to lock the doors to keep the monkeys out? Or looking out at this enourmous lake and seeing it carpeted in pink only to find out they were flamingos? We sped past large fields of soft green plants shiny with new growth. The fields were speckled with what looked like white flags, but instead they were the workers hunched over the plants picking each leaf by hand. It was then that I think Brett got more of a feel for how far Kenya has to grow to catch up. The fields looked just like the cotton fields of the South 150 years ago.
All through the drive people were walking, herding cattle by the side of the road, statuesque women with large containers on their head marched straight ahead , and the ever present stacks of bananas and potatoes being sold at every market. This is my Kenya and my heart skipped a beat as we were nearing Kisumu. What owns me is the people in the rural areas: their broad smiles, their simple prayers, their kindness, the big eyes of the children seeing a Muzungu. It is the smell of the rain and burning trash all at once. It is the red clay that covers me the moment we strike out for wherever we are going. It is the endless sky promising a day’s story of weather in the clouds and colors that are ever changing.
Tomorrow we shall arise early and get going. Francis will be working on his car all day, so it is quite fortunate that we have a vehicle through KMET to use. I know Monica does not know that I have seen the slums and poverty, the schools and orphanages, the bedridden oozing open sores, but that is fine because Brett will see it and that gives me new perspective and new thoughts. I am so grateful to have found Monica. She is a woman after my own heart, deliberate, organized, no nonsense and dedicated as a mother is to her infant child. In fact, just as they call me Mama Susan, they call her Mama KMET.
It was a good day after all. As Brett and I sat having dinner under the trees with the monkeys swinging above us, it just felt like it was such a victory about to unfold. So yes time does go before people, but in the end, I think we catch up.

Going Home

There are some things I am sure of when I go to Kenya and some that are in God's hands.Things are shaping nicely with the arrangements I have made with Francis and KMET. I've texted the teachers since I can't get them on their cell phones ( I truly don't understand that part of cyberspace). How it will all fall out...i.e. will people show up on the day planned, will the river overflow and be impossible to cross (highly likely given recent weather reports), will the plane land in Kisumu on the first swipe or go to Dar Es Salaam first...hmm don't know. However when we are at the end of the trip, when the plane heads from Mombasa to Nairobi I know it will be done.

The other thing I know is how to fool customs, hence the photo above. I have now been traveling enough to know that Kenyans are very embarrassed by anything having to do with sex, (though they fool around like crazy), so I always pack the contraband under mountains of condoms. Condoms make great packing material, they will cushion the laptops I have at the bottom and they will stop the customs agents dead in their track.

White people should not wear African clothing, but I always do on the flight over. When we sidle up to customs I great them either in Swahili, Luo or Luya (don't be impressed my vocabulary in each is quite limited). Then in a loud voice I tell them in English they should feel free to search my cases. I do however let them know I am an AIDS trainer and that there may be some things on the top of the suitcase they may want to shield from other travelers. It's so much fun to watch their eyes when they unzip the case. You honkeys out there probably don't know this but I can make the darkest African blush and I do. I am then rapidly waved on.

This time, as you know if you have been following the blog, I am traveling with B from my board. Now he isn't an AIDS trainer and we can't pull that twice. So what will we do in his case? Bibles, Bibles Bibles. They don't mess with missionaries either and though B is the farthest thing from one he can play one in this video. So we're goin' to Kenya. See Ya when we get back.

And Now the Yellow Brick Road

Friday night arrived, cool and beautiful, but not as magnificent as what was happening inside the Hernandez Center. Harambee kicked off it's second annual dinner dance to benefit the children we serve in Nambale. As the Director of this little operation, and 62 years old (ah now you know MM's Age don't tell) I was totally blown away by what our committee pulled together. Whoever thinks that people in their 20's and 30's don't care about the world, or know how to run a charity event ought to meet the folks that ran Harambee. It was seamless in it's grace and we made several thousand dollars which is good since we need it.

Now I turn my attention to returning to my heart home, Kenya. I so look forward to seeing the friends and sisters who I have come to love over the years. I watch my Kenyan nieces on Facebook and love their spirit and faith. I return to St. John's ACK Church, where my sister E who, began this journey 7 years ago, still preaches. You cannot imagine a church like this, tin roof, wooden benches, people spilling out of the doorways. There are less folks than there were before the elections. E says so many fled in terror or lost their faith. Even E no longer lives at KARI, but now in Nairobi.
I cannot imagine what those long nights of killing must have been like. Frankly I don't want to.

B is coming with me, stalwart Board Member and loyal house mouse. He finally got his shots on Friday and he was feeling it. I am delighted, though, that he is coming. It is only when you can smell the acrid air, feel the moist redness of the clay, hear the crow of a rooster or the song of the children, that it really sears itself into your soul. I know that once you go to where I go, you are never the same. A small piece of your heart remains in Nambale and the sight of the kids waving branches and singing is nothing I can even try and touch.

Now that I turn my attention fully to Kenya I couldn't help but laugh at the note in the Nation of new anti-malarial drugs being tested in Rusinga, Island. See, most of you probably haven't read the "Freenie Shack". I'll probably have to post it again, but Rusinga is where I got malaria as well as a couple other creepy crawlies. We won't be going to Rusinga, but it did tickle me that they are rolling out a new anti-malarial there. See there isn't a mosquito in all of Nyanza province that doesn't carry malaria. But the ones on Rusinga laugh at the thought of a medication that might hinder their spreading of the fevers. And folks here are worried about Swine Flu.Ha, I laugh in your face. I'll match any pig in the U.S. to the mosquitoes in Rusinga to a pandemic competition and I promise you the little guy will definitely win.

I wouldn't change it for the world. I'll be off in less than 2 weeks and I know the stories we shall encounter on the way to Oz shall be life changing.

Keep the faith y'all

Anti-malaria drug trials set to kick off in Kenya
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Posted Sunday, April 19 2009 at 19:02

Trials for a new anti-malaria drug are set to begin at Rusinga Island of Suba District.

Mr James Onchwati, a representative of Artepharm in Kenya, said in Kisumu at a anti-malaria launch dinner that discussions with the ministry of Health were in progress to pave way for trials of Artequick to begin.

The drug is manufactured by Artepharm, a Chinese company.

Mr Onchwati said that the free treatment would be a model study to eradicate malaria in the area, which has a high rate of infection.

He said similar tests had been conducted successfully in the Comoros Islands last year.