TheWayForward

6 June 2009

It is time to return to Nairobi. Neither Brett nor I had any idea how long it would take to get there. The roads were their usual bumpy, dusty selves and the track seemed as if it would never end. It was the first time I heard Brett complain about anything. He, like me, was tired of the amount of travel it takes to get anywhere. I also was really feeling it in my whole body, the weariness, the aches and pains of hard roads and endless travel. But the Mara spread out before us and the skies reminded us that when we returned to the States this broad expanse, this life changing trip would be over and we would slip back into the fast passed, technological lives we had left. Definitely a mixed bag.

We traveled a different way home, so instead of going through the Rift I got to see Central Kenya. We surely had seen a lot of different terrain. As we passed through the land of the Masai, past the Kisi and into Kikuyu land I had a good deal of time to think. I still couldn’t bring myself to grasp all that had happened. I couldn’t wrap myself around the joy and satisfaction of a job well done. I couldn’t quite see that all had been accomplished despite no real plan when we left. It is almost a week later now and I’m still perking all of it.

What I do know is that it has taken so many people to get to where we are. I received a lovely email from one of the committee members for the Harambee and I had to tell her, that if I succeeded it was that so many people were holding me up. This remarkable board who believes so strongly in what we are doing and are willing to work hard so that we can raise the money to move forward. All the countless folks who have donated small amounts of money, to the one donor who carried me for 4 years with his contribution of most of our budget kept me returning.. I think of boards past and their work, and the people in my church and the one totally clear thing I know is that it takes a village here to help a village there. We are truly One Village at a Time and we’re walking towards that endless sky that encompasses all of us and unites our humanity. I am grateful and proud of that.
And God said it is good.

TheMara

4 June 2009

The Mara


We are up early to leave for the Mara. We know it will be an 8 hour drive, but it doesn’t dawn on us until fhe 5th hour how truly long the drive shall be. The landscape passes, ending green,, vast skies that 4 June 2009

stretch to eternity. However, we have traveled so many miles during the trip that it is beginning to wear on us.

As I have the time to be still and watch out the window I think of the plight of women here. They are really, for the most part, no more than beasts of burden. The rights they have, they are mostly too afraid to exercise, and if they do they ri8sk ostracization from the community. Women are the ones who carry the water, the sticks for firewood, the sugar cane on their heads as well as countless other things. I see small girls no more than 5 carrying loads on their head. I try to think what this is comparable to. .Francis and I launch into our usual discussion of this. He comes at me with the same arguments men have used since time immemorial. 1. Women don’t have it so bad. 2. Some women have it better, they have formed some groups, 3. It is our Society (and with this I get a nervous laugh).It’s the way it has always been. (and I think to myself and how’s that working for your country?) . I give up because I remember this discussion from 45 years ago. My heart sinks. It is the same argument women in my country have had since we struggled for the vote and I know I am not here to change their political system

For a comparison t I go to what I know, the deep South during the time of slavery, but the analogy won’t work. There even under slavery, men and women were slaves, not just women. And then I realize that the society here is more like feudal China where men were all powerful and women were powerless to be sold, worked to death, pushed aside for a newer wife, girl children were considered a misfortune at best and a curse most of the time. I wonder if it will take a Mao Tse Tung here to bring about the change necessary for Kenya to come up to modern standards.

What I do realize is that someone like Monica or Miriam must fight even harder than I did. During the 60’s and 70’s at least I didn’t have to worry about dying for my beliefs. But AIDS ravages people in their prime. Since women are so devalued, they are used to being abused, raped, or girls going into prostitution right out of junior high because there is no other way for them., How do you fight with an army that is crippled by a disease they can’t even feel comfortable getting tested for. And if they have no reproductive freedom then where does one begin if they are either, pregnant, mothers of many children, or dying of AIDS or widows because of AIDS. The mind boggles and I must remind myself that God sends many angels and this is not my fight.

The landscape changes dramatically as we begin to enter the Mara. The terrain is more of a savanah than the the fields of Maize, and coffee and sugar cane which we have seen for hours. The people are elegant robed in bright red and purple. We have entered the land of the Masai. One cannot help but be overwhelmed by the vastness of the terrain, or the dust that blows through the windows as we traverse an unending road of sand and rocks. However when we first spot a herd of Zebras it is an incredible sight.

I suspect I have never gone on Safari because I have never dreamed of it as others do. That I guess and I don’t like to rough it in hiking gear and sleeping in tents nor rising at the crack of dawn to tick off my list seeing the “big 5” animals as t those who become dreamy eyed when they hear I am going on Safari. I’m much more of a pool and spa girl if I’m not working.

We arrive at the Balloon place first. I have graciously offered to take everyone since Francis told me it was about $50 US. I doubled that and figured even at $300 for all of us it was worth it. Wrong, seems the going price is $350 per person. And the guy just isn‘t going down on the price. He remains firm. It‘s way out of Brett‘s budget and I’m still mulling it over as we pull up to the lodge. There as we arrive are groups of baby monkeys and some other animal having the time of their lives chasing each other. One really understands the saying “monkey business”. I am enchanted and when we go to our rooms, I am giddy with delight..

How cool is it to walk out your front door of your room and have an elephant grazing less than 20 feet away, or have baboons frolicking on your front porch? Or a path of 300 meters that will take you to the Hippo pond? Yes folks we’re in the Mara where the exotic is everyday and most people are here to spend thousands of dollars to see the wild animals. .

The place is sensational with all the things MM needs to be refreshed and clean. It is a charming place, built by the Brits in the style of the Awanee in Yosemite if you know of that place. Definitely a lodge with fab cabins, a place of peace and serenity with hot and cold running water. Sweeeet!

The guy from the balloon place comes over that night. I have decided to go for it and take the balloon myself. That is until he tells me I have to be ready at 5:45A. Freaking M. Ah no, I’m all set with that. Not even the promise of floating over the Serengeti can get me up at that hour.

So it looks like we’re driving the Mara. We leave the next morning at a leisurely 9:30 which is just fine.
We do get to see more hippos and gazelle, huge giraffe and a few birds, no rhino’s or lions. Again you have to get up EARLY for that, so it’s an opportunity I can miss. We are back at the hotel by 2 ish and get ready for our massages. I trot off to the pool which is under renovation, but still great. I must admit hearing the hippos make flubby noises and having monkeys run across you as you lie down is alluring, but the massage is even more so. We are coming to a close. Tomorrow we shall drive unending miles in more dirt and bone racking hours in the car to get back to Nairobi tomorrow to leave. For now, though, I reflect on where I am and what we have accomplished and I secretly smile to myself. Today it’s good to be me

AndGodSaw

And God Saw It and It Was Good

This is not an easy journal entry to write. For so long I have had a dream of what could be, how the schools of Nambale could grow…how I wanted to help the women and children to be empowered and feed themselves. It has been 7 years since I started this journey and today I finally know we are planted firmly on the way forward.

We went to the Malanga school early so that I could meet with the parents, children, and teachers before KMET was to arrive. We were surrounded in a sea of children chanting welcome, clapping of parents, teachers. I am used to it, but to have Brett with me to see how the people respond made it far more special.

As always it is good to get back to my hone schools. I know the teachers and families and we know the roads we have traveled. It was made even better because the Manyole parents came as well as two vans of parents from Khwerila school where Miriam was the new headmistress.

I described what we wanted to do in partnering with KMET and all the opportunities that lay ahead of them. It was still difficult to get away from the donor mentality and the men surely were not n favor of empowering the women. But all sides needed to be heard. I was amazed at the progress they had made even in the time since my last meeting and several women had set up cooperative businesses. I saw that what I had planted over the past few years was really growing.

You know, I never know what I have accomplished when I finish a trip. I generally think it went well, but because I only see them every 9 months I cannot know all that they have done. I was so proud of all of them I was grinning and trying not to cry.

Finally at 2P KMET came in to talk to everyone there. They are beyond descriptio, but everything I had dreamed of. They can unite the people, empower the women, help the girls and truly raise up the community, Together we shall make a big difference. However, I have turned over the running of the feeding program and micro-finance to KMET. And in so doing I knew that I was giving my children to the care of another. While I felt such a great accomplishment, I must admit that I felt a bit sad and somewhat at a loss as to the way forward.

What I do know is that the opportunities to help through KMET, Millenium project and my incredible board much shall be accomplished. And like a good Mother I must know when the chickens can leave the nest. So it was a happy sad day, but I know I shall see more when I return and I also had tomorrow to look forward to . I was returning home to Manyole, my secret favorite of the group.

We could hear the singing as we turned up the dusty road, the women were dancing and the children were lined up singing. I had to get out of the car and dance with the women all the way up to the school. There was wild excitement as I entered the grounds . It is always overwhelming when that happens and I think even Brett was a bit taken aback.

The children did their usual dances and poems. I am always amazed at their awareness of the world around them. They sang a song about the problems of Kenya and it covered everything from the fighting in the government to AIDS to the Mungiki to child abuse. They know so much more about their country than their agemates do in the U.S.

Once the festivities were over the speeches began. As always they were gearing up for the ask.Seems that we have been helping the parents save their money because of what we have given. That wasn’t the intention, By now they were supposed to be feeding all the children, not just 7th and 8th grade. Even the Headmaster had a hard time wrapping his head around our desire to feed the entire school. However they are a faithful group and their Christianity is very powerful, so I’m afraid I used all my skills to figure out how to get the point across that all children must be fed.

I asked on of the teachers to fetch me a 1st grader, 3rd grader and an 8th grader. Then I lined all the children up and asked the parents which child God loved the most. They were astonished and quickly answered that all are equal in God’s eyes. So I said if they believed it then why were only some children getting fed. It was a showstopper and they are now ready to feed all the kids by digging deep.

This is not to say that there were not some major improvements by the parents.
Their progress in income generating projects was nothing short of miraculous. . They had taken the teaching of last October and really run with it. They had formed groups themselves and had begun micro-finance without us! The women who were running a very successful poultry business proudly gave me a bowl for eggs, many eggs and a live hen.
(I must admit Mother does not like live chickens). However Brett was beside me and after I had taken it he quickly hid it where I could not see it. They were also lending each other money and they had a group for grains and one for dairy all of which were making progress.

It was then that I was truly struck with how far I had come on this journey. It is painful to know that I am giving them over, mostly now, to Monica and KMET. I know it is best, but I don’t know what my role shall be with the schools now, and there was a lump in my throat as I bid mbuela (goodbye) to them. I know I shall be back, but it the road is not so clear.

We left Nambale and traveled back to Kisumu and I got to meet with Monica one last time. She told me I had done a great job and when she sees Manyole she will be blown away. Her words meant so much to me. She is a woman I admire and know is doing great things. I needed to hear that what I had done helped. I guess we all need applause.

Transitions are not easy, but they are needed for something to be organic and grow in ways that I cannot even think. So I think about Genesis and how after each thing God created He smiled and said it is good, and I felt on our way out of Kisumu that God was shining down and smiling offering me encouragement that this what He had in mind all along. I just had to find the way myself. It was good to be home in Nambale.
And God Saw It and It Was Good

Thank God for Cipro

31 May 2009

Thank God for Cipro! Yesterday was spent close to the room and the loo for both of us. However we rallied in time to get off to Nambale by 4P.About an hour outside Nambale I could feel my spirits sing as I knew I was nearing home. I watched the fields change and the shambas start to show up on the side of the road. I watched as the towns grew sparser and the sky became enormous. There is nothing like an African sky, I can assure. I hoped when we got to Nambale Brett would totally fall in love and leave a part of his heart here.

We had dinner with the teachers from the 2 old schools we had been partnering with and Miriam‘s new school. I knew I needed Miriam as part of whatever team I was on. I spent a bit of time catching up on how the schools were doing, since the reports I got were so bare as to be non-existent. I then sold them on KMET and I think they saw the virtue in the partnership. I know both Manyole and Malanga are government or Anglican schools and I am not truly convinced that they own this program. I know the headmasters of those 2 schools were expecting checks.

I explained the program for Tuesday for all 3 schools and told them to come prepared to give an accounting of the progress of the program. I do know that they spent what I gave them in October by December and did not budget so I shall be curious as to what they tell me. I have had mixed feelings about what I should do about money for their feeding programs since they are in non-compliance, and finally at the end of today I figured it out. We shall match shilling or shilling what the parents put in. I‘ll let you know later how much we have to shell out.

This morning we went to Miriam’s school. This is the worst school I have seen so far in terms of what the children have for structure and supplies. However it was built and paid for by the parents and that thrills me. There are no desks or chairs, no books, no windows. There is not cook hut to prepare the meagerest of meals. Miriam has no office, she must sit outside under the veranda. It is the typical Kenya shaft job on Miriam. She was supposed to be headmistress of Manyole which is a large well equipped school, but another teacher from Malanga got the posting so Miriam now has to commute 60km back and forth on a Matatu (van crowded with people) for 15 Km and then rides the second 15 Km on the back of a boda boda (bicycle).

Today was a holiday here in Kenya, so when I saw the one real room packd with parents and teachers, I was extremely impressed. They are serious about working together.. There were the usual songs and dances, the children are quite small and not as polished as the other 2 schools but that lends them a certain charm for their effort.Onec the speeches were over it was my turn and I tried to steer them away from the idea of a donor and towards a partnership. I explained what KMET did and how it helped to empower women. I may have been a bit strong on that idea and shall have to back track. Francis told me on the way home that if the men feel pushed aside they will scotch the entire venture. So with that in mind, while sweating here writing I just sent a message to Miriam that I would also pay for a van of men to come to the shindig tomorrow. No point is pissing people off, which is something I am prone to do from time to time.

Brett was wonderful as he explained about building a bridge from Kenya to America and back. That was a real touch of genius because it once again emphasized we are not donors but partners. I suspect as long as I come here I shall have to do that educating thing. The reassuring part for me is to watch a pro like Monica struggle with the same thing. She, too, is constantly talking about teaching how to fish not giving a fish. I know it is the only way we shall succeed in truly changing the lives of the people here. But I am hopeful.

Doom did not occur. Miriam got everyone in shape, Francis’ car is working well, and tomorrow is the big meeting of the 3 schools and KMET. It is always a walk of faith for me. God wants it that way. However in the end it all gets done and I remember why I was called here. I remember the amazing people and connections that I have made. I see that Miriam belongs at that tiny school since it is only she that can bring it to fruition. They shall be the model. It always goes back to that day outside of Debra Libanos, Ethiopia 7 years ago. There I felt it, be a raindrop, God will bring the rain.

And on that note dear reader I close for today. Tomorrow shall be an eye opener and I hope I am up to the challenge.

I Am Sigourney Weaver

We have now finished our first week here in Kenya. If, dear reader, you have actually been following this
blog you know that we have accomplished a lot. However, time in Kenya does take its toll on those who are used to a more fast paced life. Brett alternates between silent resignation and beaten down resolve in trying to use the internet to conduct his regular job. The food is its usual monotonous self and one already longs for different tastes. My American companion grows misty eyed over a recognizable Italian taste which simply cannot be had over here.

Today we took the day to sleep in. Evidently the 2 Bretts and Francis had quite the night since I was up earlier than they were.For those who know Mother in the flesh you know that rising early for me is as common as a white lobster. Nevertheless, we decided to opt for a pool day which turned out rather splendidly. However imagine if you will the theme from Jaws distantly whispering in your ear. We are going back to the hell hole know as our hotel. Da dum da dum…..

Upon arrival back at the hotel I try to straighten out the bill and get credit speaking a language never heard by human ears. Whump out pops Sigourney and we are off to the races. (You do remember her in Ghost Busters). Trust me I put her to shame. I am so pissed that I am crazy angry and there is no turning back. What Kenyans do when faced with Nasty American Bitch is fix their eyes on my cross and pray for a miracle. It usually starts with the innocent question “Are you a Christian?” Yeah and what’s that to you?
Now we’re on a roll. What does my religion have to do with their crediting my account? Are they saying that if I were a Muslim or a Jew they wouldn’t even try? You get my drift. I am now in C above High C and still ramping up. Since I have just finished the fundraiser I know how to credit a credit card. In fact I did it just last week for a person. I explain how to find the merchant I.D. a miracle they never knew of. I am also threatening total annihilation to this establishment and anyone ever connected with it. The desk guy now looks totally terrified. Hah, I have done my work. I leave him to contact whatever invisible person he must call. I flounce up to my room and wait to hear from him.
I return to my room muttering don’t mess with Nasty American Bitch and take a shower to cool down. When I have finally have let off enough steam to let the man at the desk live I go downstairs and try a new tact.I can see that there is no way he can figure out how to credit an account, so I explain to him that what he can do is comp all the meals that we have eaten in this dreary place. The bills for all 3 nights amounted to $41US. I told him that could be a Christian challenge to him to get that through to his boss and left once again to refresh my soul with a little blood letting by Dexter. Upon returning to the desk, Ken (the desk guy) says that his boss is offering to comp our dinner tonight. Blam Sigourney is back full force. I can see her needing all the thorazine they can throw at her so she doesn’t rip this guys tongue from his quivering lips.
No that won’t do I said. I could see the dodge and finally worked my way through it. They were trying to keep all the charges they had made on the bill so they would not have to issue a credit. But Nasty American White Woman would not be beaten. I told Ken that he hadn’t put through this evening’s bill for lodging and that if he did he would not see the sunset at the Sunset Hotel tomorrow. He got my drift and we were all done. And tomorrow it’s on to Nambale.

The Good , The Bad and the Really, Really Ugly

30 May 2009
We went back to KMET to visit their nutrition center and another few women who were benefitting from the micro-finance work they were doing. The most intriguing woman was an elderly lady with large sagging breasts, and few teeth. However she was the Warren Buffet of the slums. She was on her fifth loan with KMET. She had a tailoring business, a small shop, she grew vegetables on a tiny plot of land in the slums. But the coolest thing was the pond she had dug with help from KMET. There she was growing small fish called omina. Over the pond she had built a chicken coop with the chicken droppings going directly into the pond. That way the chickens fed the fish and she only had to feed the chickens. Totally one of the smartest and coolest ideas I’d ever seen. And all this for a couple hundred dollars!

I won’t detail all that we saw, suffice it to say it was exhilarating and I felt as if I had found a true partner and sister in the fight. We returned to KMET for me to do an AIDS training which I always like doing. At first people are reluctant when they hear it is 2 or 3 hours, but it is such an effective tool and people have so much fun with the games (the condom relay race is always hysterical) that in the end there is laughter and learning and everyone feels better for being together.
We finished the day with a frustrating time trying to use their internet. It is so much a part of Kenya that their internet is used with satellite and cell phones, that it is not truly wireless. It is true that I am well plugged into the electric teat, but not as badly as Brett, so he really had a tough time.

We finished and went out in a group for dinner. We were meeting my beloved Daniel a young man who has counseled me, watched over me, taught me and I have watched grow. He is now assistant bureau chief of the Nation and I was most anxious to see him again. I was also anxious that the Bretts and others from KMET meet him. The best part of the evening is that he agreed to come to Nambale and cover our partnership with KMET and the passing of the baton. And it will be featured in the Nation. Sweeeeet!
The young’uns were going dancing. That would have been everyone but me, so Francis returned me to the hotel and he went off to join the revelry. Now this white girl had gone 2 nights without air conditioning in the hottest part of Kenya. I had traipsed through fly infested slums, shaken hundreds of children’s hands and allowed them to touch my hair (always a fascination for them). I was hot, dirty and looking forward to writing this journal and watching Dexter. Aha, no.

They had changed my room, but the air conditioning didn’t work in the second room, nor the 3rd or the 4th. Ok..Watch out now, here comes the Bitch. I had had it. I try not to get American nasty but by the time I finished with them, I was threatening to destroy them on the internet if they didn’t get me a room with BOTH air conditioning and hot water. 1 hour later, this ugly, hot, tired bitch had a cold shower and set down to write this blog. At least there is air conditioning and a cold shower I can deal with. Tomorrow we have a blessed day off before we take off for Nambale.
As I reflect on this time with KMET, I feel incredibly lucky and blessed that I get to do the work I do. Keep the faith y'all